How do you shave down a saddle?

[theevan]

I just bought a lovely Masaki Sakurai from a friend ('83, Braz/cedar) that I restrung and am getting my sea legs on. The action is too high. The saddle is plenty tall and there's a sharp break angle behind it...a good candidate for a shave job. I'm figuring 2-3mm (which will yield half that at the 12th fret).

So, how do you do it? I've always nailed some coarse sandpaper to my bench, grasped the saddle in some locking vise grips and sand until I reach the mark. Thing is, saddle-to-slot contact is critical, especially with the lower energy transferred by nylon strings. I'm thinking my method may not yield the flattest bottom.

Whacha got?

[millring]

I always thought the only safe way to do it was gradually sanding a marked saddle on a perfectly flat sanding block.

[Cosmic Wonder]

Evan, at wood working stores you can purchase a piece of perfectly flat granite. Most people use them for sharpening chisels and other cutting tools, but you can stick some wet and dry sand paper and you will get a flat bottom on your saddle, assuming you can keep the saddle at 90 degrees to the sanding stone. You are also assuming your bridge is flat...

Mike

[Greg B]

The fur on your saddle came from your horse. You can just wash it off. You don't have to shave it. I suggest using a blanket between the horse and your saddle.

Oh, and don't shave your horse.

Was that helpful at all?

[PaulKay]

Jul 25, 2014 9:35:37 GMT -5 Greg B said:

The fur on your saddle came from your horse. You can just wash it off. You don't have to shave it. I suggest using a blanket between the horse and your saddle.

Oh, and don't shave your horse.

Was that helpful at all?

... and don't shave it while you're riding on it!

[Dub]

Here is an image from the Stewart-MacDonald Web site where they explain one way to joint a scraper blade. Jointing is the process of making the edge straight and square (i.e., tried and true). I'm thinking this would also work well for jointing a saddle blank. Make sure all surfaces and angles on the wooden block are square and true. An eight to ten inch mill bastard ought to work fine and will produce a smoother edge than a sanding medium.

Attachments:

[Deleted]

I never adjust a saddle until I'm sure the string height is correct at the nut, if it is then.....


Measure the string height at the 12th fret and decide what height you would like it to be at. Measurement should be from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the unfretted string. What I consider a low classical action would be 2.5mm treble side and 3.5mm bass side 3mm and 4mm would be semi-low.

Knowing that you will take 1mm off the saddle to get .5mm drop at the 12th fret mark the amount to be removed from the saddle at the E string locations, you may be taking more off one side than the other. Draw a line along the saddle to connect the marks. If you need to take off more than say .5mm sanding is not the best option, too slow. So put the saddle in a vise and file off most of the excess, just shy of the line, do your best to keep this semi-square.
Now you can use the sandpaper attached to a smooth, flat surface to bring that last little bit to the mark. It's nice to have a long, squared edge, piece of wood held down over the sandpaper as a guide to keep the saddle bottom square to its sides. Place the saddle, bottom down, against wood, treble side forward, and slide it back and forth. Then reverse the saddle, bass side forward and repeat. Keep reversing the saddle while working to the mark. This helps against taking more off one end than the other.

I have a 6"X 8"X 1 1/4" piece of granite on my bench for this type of job.


EDIT: Mark posted while I was writing this. His diagram is what I was talking about with the long squared block. But don't move the block, just the saddle.

[theevan]

Right now we're at 3.5mm treble and 4.5 bass. I'm going for full 1 mm reduction BUT, I'm going to stop at .5 and play it for some weeks.

I'm quite sure the height at the nut is correct and all the strings are sitting exactly halfway into their slot...a good sign.

Mike, the bridge is indeed curved. But the saddle slot it completely flat. Whew

Anyway, the diagram makes sense. I have a way to do this, I think, and I'll make the saddle bottom proud to my line, file it off, then switch to sandpaper on granite (which I have) to finish, a la Marteee.

[Deleted]

BTW: I use sticky backed sandpaper on my granite slab.

Also, I have a table disk sander for removing the majority of waste material. Then I will do the final finish and squaring on the granite.

[brucemacneill]

According to another thread Marty can also do a Brazilian on it but I don't know if he leaves a landing strip or goes full "Hollywood".

[Village Idiot]

Here's what I would do: Come to Idiotjam. Have Marty do it.

[t-bob]

I lowered my Taylot guitar neck nut and the bridge saddle.

[patrick]

Here's how to shave a saddlebag:



Hope this helps.

[theevan]

Jul 26, 2014 12:43:57 GMT -5 patrick said:

Here's how to shave a saddlebag:



Hope this helps.

I keep watching it, Patrick, but haven't figured out how it applies. I think I'll watch it again...

[Deleted]

Jul 25, 2014 14:19:15 GMT -5 brucemacneill said:

According to another thread Marty can also do a Brazilian on it but I don't know if he leaves a landing strip or goes full "Hollywood".

Bruce, with material like this, I'd say definitely retain the new writing staff.

[theevan]

Done. Took it down 1mm. Took it another .8

Only trouble is the fit in the slot is exceptionally tight. I had to ease of the edges (I guess even bone can catch a little burr) & dry lube the thing.

[Deleted]

Lay it side down on the sandpaper and move it back and forth, reverse end for end every few strokes to keep the cut even unit it is a slip fit. You want it tight but not so tight as a change in humidity, or the string tension itself, could cause the bridge to crack at the slot.

[Deleted]

Jul 25, 2014 22:21:26 GMT -5 t-bob said:

I lowered my Taylot guitar neck nut and the bridge saddle.

That's a nice little belt/disk sander, I gave away my little one, it was just not accurate enough. I may have to look into one of the ACE ones for a travel unit.

[Cosmic Wonder]

I lowered my entire guitar. It was on the couch and my wife made me put it in its case on the floor. It took less than a minute.

Mike

[drlj]

Jul 28, 2014 21:57:38 GMT -5 Cosmic Wonder said:

I lowered my entire guitar. It was on the couch and my wife made me put it in its case on the floor. It took less than a minute.

Mike

That, in luthier talk, is called shaving down the guitar.