|
Post by drlj on Aug 6, 2023 14:06:58 GMT -5
Sweetwater gave me a set of DR Veritas strings for the low price of $0.00 and, since they are round core strings, which I usually avoid like the plague, I thought I would probably never use them. Bring an adventurous sort, however, I decided to go ahead and put them on the OM. They sound & feel pretty nice. Extry good, as David Grier would say. Great price, too. I am always willing to pay nothing. Any of you ever used them? I doubt I can get any more at that price so I may actually have to pay for my next set. They came with extra 1st & 2nd strings—a gold string and a silver string. I used the gold just to maintain my usual flashiness.
|
|
Dub
Administrator
I'm gettin' so the past is the only thing I can remember.
Posts: 19,914
|
Post by Dub on Aug 6, 2023 14:18:49 GMT -5
This may be one of the few sets I haven’t tried. Maybe I’ll give them a shot.
I’m curious about your “round wound” comment. I would have guessed that you always used round wound strings as opposed to flat wound or half round.
Do you mean they are wound on round core wire rather the hexagonal wire? If so, what is your objection to round core?
|
|
|
Post by drlj on Aug 6, 2023 14:41:35 GMT -5
This may be one of the few sets I haven’t tried. Maybe I’ll give them a shot. I’m curious about your “round wound” comment. I would have guessed that you always used round wound strings as opposed to flat wound or half round. Do you mean they are wound on round core wire rather the hexagonal wire? If so, what is your objection to round core? Poorly worded on my part. I meant strings wound on a round core. I fixed my initial post to say what I meant. I am always concerned that they will unravel. I have to admit, though, they never do, so my worry is probably unnecessary. I often cut strings before they are wound on the post & that would probably make them unravel. Anyway, these strings seem pretty nice to me. I usually use D’Adarrio strings but every now & then I try something different.
|
|
Dub
Administrator
I'm gettin' so the past is the only thing I can remember.
Posts: 19,914
|
Post by Dub on Aug 6, 2023 15:17:20 GMT -5
I often cut strings before they are wound on the post & that would probably make them unravel. Yes, it would. I’ve never tried cutting strings prior to winding them on the post. I’ve seen warnings on round-core string packages not to cut them until they are installed and tuned to pitch and I thought that made sense but you’re the first person I’ve met who did that.
|
|
|
Post by drlj on Aug 6, 2023 15:43:21 GMT -5
I often cut strings before they are wound on the post & that would probably make them unravel. Yes, it would. I’ve never tried cutting strings prior to winding them on the post. I’ve seen warnings on round-core string packages not to cut them until they are installed and tuned to pitch and I thought that made sense but you’re the first person I’ve met who did that. Well, the ones I cut are hex core and that works fine with them. I often put strings on the way Marty suggests by looping the string over and having a wrap above and two below the string at the post and then cut them, but when I cut them before, I get the same wrap of one above, two below. They hold just as tightly and do not slip. It works fine and is actually a bit easier to do. I been doing it that way for maybe 40 years and there has never been a problem. I have had people recoil in horror when I tell them I do it way as though the guitar might explode, but it works fine with hex core strings. I had a guy from England on the Martin forum tell me I was violating the warranty by doing that which was pretty nuts. That was years ago. It does not violate any warranty or any laws of nature!😊
|
|
|
Post by PaulKay on Aug 7, 2023 9:10:56 GMT -5
I've never used them and must admit that I have a hard time seeing any advantage of round core strings. It seems that the mechanical vibration of a string core with it's windings would stay locked in unison with a hex core. A round core suggests that the winding and core are free to move with respect to each other. Is that good or bad? Dunno. It might be that the round core stings can ring ever so slightly longer than hex core strings given there might be less string damping from having the core and winding locked together.
|
|
|
Post by drlj on Aug 7, 2023 9:22:28 GMT -5
I've never used them and must admit that I have a hard time seeing any advantage of round core strings. It seems that the mechanical vibration of a string core with it's windings would stay locked in unison with a hex core. A round core suggests that the winding and core are free to move with respect to each other. Is that good or bad? Dunno. It might be that the round core stings can ring ever so slightly longer than hex core strings given there might be less string damping from having the core and winding locked together. Well, the jury is out for right now. They sound nice. Plenty of volume. They claim they are very long lasting but they are not coated strings. I will play them a while and see how things go. Since they were free it is no loss to me. I have always been leery of round core strings for the reasons you mention.
|
|
Dub
Administrator
I'm gettin' so the past is the only thing I can remember.
Posts: 19,914
|
Post by Dub on Aug 7, 2023 10:19:50 GMT -5
I have the idea that round-core strings aren’t the new thing, they are the old thing. Hex- core is the “new” thing. I think some people buy round-core thinking they’ll get some kind of retro tone or vibe.
|
|
|
Post by Marty on Aug 7, 2023 10:57:14 GMT -5
I've never used them and must admit that I have a hard time seeing any advantage of round core strings. It seems that the mechanical vibration of a string core with it's windings would stay locked in unison with a hex core. A round core suggests that the winding and core are free to move with respect to each other. Is that good or bad? Dunno. It might be that the round core stings can ring ever so slightly longer than hex core strings given there might be less string damping from having the core and winding locked together. Well, the jury is out for right now. They sound nice. Plenty of volume. They claim they are very long lasting but they are not coated strings. I will play them a while and see how things go. Since they were free it is no loss to me. I have always been leery of round core strings for the reasons you mention. Round core do sustain longer than hex core. They are also more flexible and usually brighter than hex core, but do not last as long for most players. When installing round core strings do not tug on them nor try to stretch them out like one might do with hex core. Put them on and tune to pitch and then leave them alone for a while to stretch out on their own, retune but don't tug. They take a little longer to settle in but I think they are worth the bother. Round core are the old style of string and hex core became popular because they settled in very quickly, lasted longer and you hardly ever got a *bad string in a set. Modern round core are better too about *that but it can still happen. EDIT: "I think" you can wind a hex core string at a faster rate than a round core and produce more strings per hour, Another bonus.
|
|
Dub
Administrator
I'm gettin' so the past is the only thing I can remember.
Posts: 19,914
|
Post by Dub on Aug 7, 2023 11:18:55 GMT -5
I use round-core strings with some frequency but I don’t buy them because they are round-core, there is usually some other reason I buy them. I don’t remember disliking a set because they were round-core.
|
|
|
Post by Shannon on Aug 7, 2023 11:21:45 GMT -5
I've always been fond of DR strings in general. I have played their Sunbeam strings many times (they are round core), and their Rare phosphor bronze are probably my favorite string overall.
I don't really perceive a big difference between the round and hex core strings, to tell the truth.
|
|
|
Post by Russell Letson on Aug 7, 2023 12:08:24 GMT -5
The Argentine strings favored by gypsy-jazz players are round-core--also thin core and copper-wrapped. It's a 1930s formula that suits the Selmer-style instruments. (Some gypsy-style strings are silk & steel, but the solid-core Argentines are generally preferred.)
I started using GHS 012-046 Thin Cores on my National M-1, on the example of Mike Dowling, who uses a very light set on his El Trovador. They're as loud as anyone could want and pretty easy on the fingers. I've also used them and Argentines on the 1920 0-18, since they're low-tension enough for that instrument.
|
|
|
Post by drlj on Aug 7, 2023 12:58:39 GMT -5
I find the Veritas strings to be easy on the fingers and very smooth feeling. So far, I really like them. I appreciate all the info from you guys.
|
|
|
Post by PaulKay on Aug 7, 2023 13:50:56 GMT -5
As one who has many guitars, the primary matter is longevity. So string coatings always win out for me as the most important consideration.
..not to mention that when you rely on a plugged in sound, string squeak becomes a bigger factor, then type of core. And again coatings become a factor there too.
|
|
|
Post by coachdoc on Aug 7, 2023 14:59:27 GMT -5
I use 11-52 Elixirs. I think. Haven’t bought new strings for around a year and those that are still on my guitar still sound great.
|
|
|
Post by Village Idiot on Aug 7, 2023 16:44:43 GMT -5
Just just curious. I really don’t like the task of changing strings. At all. I hate it, actually.
But I’m sure there are people out there who like doing it for some reason. Is anyone here one of those people?
|
|
Dub
Administrator
I'm gettin' so the past is the only thing I can remember.
Posts: 19,914
|
Post by Dub on Aug 7, 2023 16:57:18 GMT -5
Just just curious. I really don’t like the task of changing strings. At all. I hate it, actually. But I’m sure there are people out there who like doing it for some reason. Is anyone here one of those people? I've never minded changing them. I've never avoided it because of the work involved. Long ago, when I was playing a lot more, I could change strings between sets if needed. It took maybe 10 minutes. These days I spend more time doing it. I also have a nice table that cranks up and down just for the purpose now. I don't enjoy the job on a 12-string and I don't look forward to changing mandolin strings even with my James Tailpiece.
|
|
|
Post by jdd2 on Aug 7, 2023 16:57:49 GMT -5
Changing strings on a slot head? ...not for me.
|
|
|
Post by drlj on Aug 7, 2023 18:40:01 GMT -5
Just just curious. I really don’t like the task of changing strings. At all. I hate it, actually. But I’m sure there are people out there who like doing it for some reason. Is anyone here one of those people? I don’t mind it. It’s usually a quick, easy job. 6 string, 12 string, or slot-head— none are difficult to do and I have all three types. It comes with the territory of owning guitars. I like taking care of my guitars and string changes are are part of taking care of them. I’ve been changing strings on my guitars since about 1965 so I have a few years of it under my belt. I have the winders, pads, neck rests, and tools and changes can be done pretty fast. I usually take longer just because I also use the time to wipe down the guitar body & fingerboard.
|
|
|
Post by Marty on Aug 7, 2023 19:01:03 GMT -5
Changing strings on a guitar is a chore if you are not set up to do it, especially on a slot head or classical. Even more so if the present set was install incorrectly. At my bench I could have a set changed in 4 minutes, slot head a couple minutes longer and a classical maybe 10-12 minutes. This does not include things like 12 strings and double necks of any type. But I did make a string winder to deal with double necks. But very few of you have a neck vise and many many string changes under your belt. If you would set up a area on a bench or counter that could be your string changing station things could be much easier and quicker. A neck rest of some sort, the heavier the better. I think I can post a build plan for this one. You can buy them, fairly cheap, but they are made from cork and not as heavy as I would like. This one is walnut because I had a hunk big enough laying around. It is suitable for acoustic, electric, mandolin or b@njo. The body pad is a entry mat from the $ store. Good Buddy Donn made this leather shot bag for. It's about 5lbs of lead shot. During a string change I place it over the tailblock area as a counter weight to hold the body down. I'm not going to tell you how to change strings, I've done that, most of you have your way of doing it. But the right tools for the job make for a much easier and quicker job done. I do recommend this little StewMac screwdriver kit as part of your guitar tools. It is always within reach on my bench. probably on Terry's bench too. EDIT: continuing after dinner. A string winder is a must and I can't think of why you would not get and use one. Wire cutter and needle nose pliers. Pliers to help remove strings put on improperly and to make a 90 degree bent in a string before being cut to length, VERY important on round core strings. Many needle nose pliers have a wire cutter built in. Many winders have a pin puller and string cutter built in but I think the dedicated dedicated tools are better.
|
|