|
|
Post by Russell Letson on May 26, 2023 10:43:18 GMT -5
While tuning my Eastman for last night's jazz sit-in, I noticed a buzz on the open high E. It went away if I played an F, so it would seem that the end of the first fret has raised up--maybe thanks to seasonal humidity changes, since it didn't buzz last week.
Question for Marty and Terry: is there an easy way of pushing the fret down a bit, or is fixing this going to require removing and reseating the fret? The Eastman is one of the guitars that I might choose to take to Ashokan in a few weeks, but if it needs surgery, it will have to go the the back of the line. (Also, it's my preferred Thursday night--though I almost never hit that open first string when playing rhythm.)
|
|
|
|
Post by Marty on May 26, 2023 10:55:20 GMT -5
Either the 1st fret is loose, the nut low or more likely the T-rod needs to be loosened just a tad. Unless you can see a gap under the fret end my first choice is the T-rod.
|
|
|
|
Post by howard lee on May 26, 2023 12:00:22 GMT -5
Either the 1st fret is loose, the nut low or more likely the T-rod needs to be loosened just a tad. Unless you can see a gap under the fret end my first choice is the T-rod.
What if it's all three things?
|
|
|
|
Post by Marty on May 26, 2023 12:33:45 GMT -5
Either the 1st fret is loose, the nut low or more likely the T-rod needs to be loosened just a tad. Unless you can see a gap under the fret end my first choice is the T-rod.
What if it's all three things?
Then it's either shop time or super glue and vise grips. |
|
|
|
Post by Russell Letson on May 26, 2023 14:19:24 GMT -5
I couldn't see any gap/raising of that first fret, but I tried a bit of a squeeze on the treble end (lots of padding and a pair of plain old pliers) and thought I heard some lessening. I also bumped the E string to a .013 and cranked the treble end of the bridge a bit higher. That seems to have taken most of the buzz away.
I can't find the right size socket for the Eastman truss rod nut (5/16" seems to be the official size), but I can't see how relief adjustment would affect just the open high E and no other note.
I'll put it in a hard case with a humidifier and see how it plays in a day or so, in case it's an environmental matter--the fret ends on several other guitars have been getting proud of their fingerboards.
FWIW, a while back (at least a month), I restrung with Galli 12-56 tape-wounds, which seem to have lower tension than the Thomastik BeBops the guitar usually wears. Maybe the neck has been gradually relaxing a bit and it finally started to have an audible effect.
|
|
|
|
Post by TKennedy on May 26, 2023 14:31:06 GMT -5
A low nut slot would be my first thought with an open e buzz that goes away fretted at 1. If you fret the e between 2 and 3 what’s the clearance at 1 on the e compared to the clearance on B and G? That said why should a jazz player even care about open strings?  |
|
|
|
Post by Russell Letson on May 26, 2023 14:54:49 GMT -5
Nut slot was my first thought as well, but I can't fix that easily at home. ("Why are you looking for your keys under the streetlight if you dropped them in the yard?" "Because the light's better here.")
|
|
|
|
Post by Marty on May 26, 2023 15:20:56 GMT -5
I couldn't see any gap/raising of that first fret, but I tried a bit of a squeeze on the treble end (lots of padding and a pair of plain old pliers) and thought I heard some lessening. I also bumped the E string to a .013 and cranked the treble end of the bridge a bit higher. That seems to have taken most of the buzz away. I can't find the right size socket for the Eastman truss rod nut (5/16" seems to be the official size), but I can't see how relief adjustment would affect just the open high E and no other note. I'll put it in a hard case with a humidifier and see how it plays in a day or so, in case it's an environmental matter--the fret ends on several other guitars have been getting proud of their fingerboards. FWIW, a while back (at least a month), I restrung with Galli 12-56 tape-wounds, which seem to have lower tension than the Thomastik BeBops the guitar usually wears. Maybe the neck has been gradually relaxing a bit and it finally started to have an audible effect. If it is a T-rod problem that will make worse. Try a 9/32 socket or bring it to me. I have low clearance wrenches. If it's a nut problem I can fix that in a flash. Very good reason to back bow a bit and Buzz at the first fret.
|
|
|
|
High fret?
May 26, 2023 15:31:47 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Marshall on May 26, 2023 15:31:47 GMT -5
Nut slot was my first thought as well, but I can't fix that easily at home. ("Why are you looking for your keys under the streetlight if you dropped them in the yard?" "Because the light's better here.") One way to raise a string in the nut is to cut a small piece of ( let’s say) 12 gauge string and slip it in the slot under the full string. It’s a non-invasive way to see if that helps. No harm done if you don’t like the outcome. |
|
|
|
Post by Rob Hanesworth on May 26, 2023 15:35:20 GMT -5
"High fret" is my mother-in-law's default condition.
|
|
|
|
High fret?
May 26, 2023 15:38:00 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Marshall on May 26, 2023 15:38:00 GMT -5
Plus in your original discussion, when you fret an F note you’re changing the length of the string which will raise the string higher next fret down the neck.
I’m a nobody, but I’d try the T rod like Marty says. Eastmans are Chinese made. I’d expect the hex on the truss rod to be metric. Probably a 4 or 5.
|
|
|
|
Post by John B on May 26, 2023 15:52:05 GMT -5
Plus in your original discussion, when you fret an F note you’re changing the length of the string which will raise the string higher next fret down the neck. I’m a nobody, but I’d try the T rod like Marty says. Eastmans are Chinese made. I’d expect the hex on the truss rod to be metric. Probably a 4 or 5. I'm pretty sure quality control keeps it at one truss rod per neck. |
|
|
|
Post by TKennedy on May 26, 2023 18:31:05 GMT -5
I’d expect the hex on the truss rod to be metric. Metric witches are the worst- |
|
|
|
Post by Marty on May 26, 2023 18:41:56 GMT -5
I’d expect the hex on the truss rod to be metric. Metric witches are the worst- Nope. Just like Gibson. Although if they went 1/4" like Taylor or Guild it would have been just as good a choice. Common sizes these days 1/8", 3/16",1/4", 9/32", 4mm, 5mm. Mossman did a 3/8" and Levin a 10.5mm, maybe 10mm. The only one I really don't like is 1/8" as the nut rounds over too easily. |
|
|
|
Post by amanajoe on May 26, 2023 20:13:31 GMT -5
I'll check my truss rod later and report back.
A short section of reliable straight metal across the 2nd and 3rd fret slid up toward the 1st will show a high 1st fret.
If it is high, I like to keep a hosco fret setter around. A series of light taps on the fret may be all that is needed. Although without a little glue it will most likely back out again. It can usually get you through a show.
|
|
|
|
Post by amanajoe on May 26, 2023 20:20:21 GMT -5
Also, it may not necessarily be the first fret. Open string vibration dynamics can hit a high fret further down that the fretted and more damped vibration might not.
If the height check of the first fret is okay, I always look where the fundamental vibrations are at a peak for the open note. Or if you don't like math, use a fret rocker along the string.
Remember TRAIN:
Truss Rod
Action
Intonation
Noodle and see how it plays
|
|
