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Post by Marshall on May 9, 2014 9:49:20 GMT -5
Morning all Later today I get to go wood hunting, fun. Looking for some good bridge stock for the H1260. Much of my bridge stock is cut to 7in. and that bridge is 7 1/2in long and over 1 1/2in. wide which makes it too wide for the long classical bridge stock. I do have Honduran, Yucatan and Madagascar blanks that would work. My first choice being the Madagascar but the one piece I have left is a rather bland light chocolate brown with no other colors to it.For Millring's guitar I want something with a little flare to it. I could and will order wood online but sometimes it is nice to see what I'm getting before I buy it. Now back to income repairs. What's wrong with the existing bridge?
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Post by Don Clark on May 9, 2014 10:58:26 GMT -5
I'm here too.....wish I could mow, but will let Ty do it tomorrow. He has a track meet today. Just putzing around getting things ready for Ty's graduation party here on Sunday afternoon.
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2014 11:03:18 GMT -5
Morning all Later today I get to go wood hunting, fun. Looking for some good bridge stock for the H1260. Much of my bridge stock is cut to 7in. and that bridge is 7 1/2in long and over 1 1/2in. wide which makes it too wide for the long classical bridge stock. I do have Honduran, Yucatan and Madagascar blanks that would work. My first choice being the Madagascar but the one piece I have left is a rather bland light chocolate brown with no other colors to it.For Millring's guitar I want something with a little flare to it. I could and will order wood online but sometimes it is nice to see what I'm getting before I buy it. Now back to income repairs. What's wrong with the existing bridge? It is a pin-less bridge and due to the way it is shaped I cannot correct the saddle slot placement for good intonation. Harmony put the saddle slot right at scale length, not compensated. By making a pin bridge I can get the saddle slot in the proper place. I will go through this again when I'm at that point in the restoration.
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Post by millring on May 9, 2014 11:05:41 GMT -5
I wondered if you were going to keep the pinless bridge. I'm happy to see not. Beyond function, it also wasn't a particularly nice looking piece of wood. A bit of life could have been brought to it with teak oil, but it still wouldn't have functioned well.
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Post by Marshall on May 9, 2014 11:22:18 GMT -5
What's wrong with the existing bridge? It is a pin-less bridge and due to the way it is shaped I cannot correct the saddle slot placement for good intonation. Harmony put the saddle slot right at scale length, not compensated. By making a pin bridge I can get the saddle slot in the proper place. I will go through this again when I'm at that point in the restoration. I suppose you expect to be compensated for it too. (But the new one will have the same overall footprint, right?)
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2014 11:25:51 GMT -5
I wondered if you were going to keep the pinless bridge. I'm happy to see not. Beyond function, it also wasn't a particularly nice looking piece of wood. A bit of life could have been brought to it with teak oil, but it still wouldn't have functioned well. Yes it is a bland piece of Brazilian, I want something that has a bit of color and eye appeal. Even some East Indian will do if it's nice looking.
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Post by Marshall on May 9, 2014 11:37:29 GMT -5
As a further discussion on bridges: I was at Bruce Roper's last week looking at the guitar he's building for me. He showed me his typical bridge which looked fine. But he just uses that as a template amd makes a fresh one every time. He had some blanks there. I chose a Brazilian one. Man, was that hunk of wood DENSE! ! ! Did i make the right choice?
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Post by Fingerplucked on May 9, 2014 11:47:12 GMT -5
Looks like it's going to be a good (bad) year for dandelions. I might go out this weekend and harvest some of those things and make a salad. No GMO's on my lawn. Yet.
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2014 14:58:35 GMT -5
It is a pin-less bridge and due to the way it is shaped I cannot correct the saddle slot placement for good intonation. Harmony put the saddle slot right at scale length, not compensated. By making a pin bridge I can get the saddle slot in the proper place. I will go through this again when I'm at that point in the restoration. I suppose you expect to be compensated for it too. (But the new one will have the same overall footprint, right?) Yes same footprint but with pins.
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2014 15:06:43 GMT -5
As a further discussion on bridges: I was at Bruce Roper's last week looking at the guitar he's building for me. He showed me his typical bridge which looked fine. But he just uses that as a template amd makes a fresh one every time. He had some blanks there. I chose a Brazilian one. Man, was that hunk of wood DENSE! ! ! Did i make the right choice? Brazilian is a excellent choice. Found a hunk of East Indian and a rather nice slab of Panama rosewood, Dalbergia Tucanseria I think. Never heard of this stuff but it looks a little like Honduran with more color variety. Very straight grained and the piece I have is well quartered.
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Post by TKennedy on May 9, 2014 16:52:17 GMT -5
I agree. BZ has become my favorite bridge wood.
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Post by Marshall on May 10, 2014 12:02:57 GMT -5
Good. i was wondering, because the thing seemed so dense and heavy. I was afraid of the Rick-Turner-esque admonition that more mass can deaden the vibration of the top. But I know you guys usually talk up the stuff. Plus I know it transmits vibration well, which is what a bridge really does. (that and spread the load out).
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